An ignition error usually means the boiler attempted to light but failed. Causes include a dirty burn pot, faulty igniter, no pellets, or poor airflow.

What to try:
Clean the combustion area, check pellet supply, and restart the boiler. If the error repeats, the igniter or combustion system may need servicing.

The safety valve may release water if system pressure is too high, the expansion vessel is faulty, or the system is overheating.

What to try:
Do not ignore this issue. Check the pressure gauge and contact a qualified technician.

Leaks may come from pipe joints, valves, pressure relief discharge, the expansion vessel, or internal components.

What to try:
Turn off the boiler if the leak is significant. Check system pressure and contact a plumber or heating technician.

Smoke or smell may indicate poor combustion, blocked flue, leaking seals, or incorrect draught.

What to try:
Stop using the boiler and ventilate the area. Check for alarms and arrange an inspection before using it again.

High pellet consumption can be caused by poor insulation, high heat demand, incorrect settings, low-quality pellets, or a dirty boiler.

What to try:
Clean the boiler regularly, use good-quality pellets, check thermostat settings, and avoid overheating the property. A service may improve efficiency.

A noisy pump may be caused by trapped air, worn components, incorrect speed setting, or low system pressure.

What to try:
Check system pressure and bleed air from the system. If the pump remains noisy, contact a heating technician.

Gurgling noises often indicate air in the heating system or poor circulation.

What to try:
Bleed the radiators and check system pressure. If the noise continues, the pump, pipework, or system layout may need checking.

The boiler may switch off because of safety alarms, overheating, lack of pellets, poor combustion, blocked flue, or a circulation problem.

What to try:
Check the error code on the display. Clean the boiler and ash areas. Make sure pellets are feeding correctly. Repeated shutdowns should be checked by a technician.

Excess ash can be caused by low-quality pellets, incorrect combustion settings, or poor airflow.

What to try:

Use certified pellets with low ash content. Clean the ash drawer and combustion chamber regularly. Arrange a service if ash build-up is unusually heavy.

Pellet feeding problems can be caused by an empty hopper, blocked auger, damp pellets, pellet dust, or a motor fault.

What to try:
Check the pellet supply. Use dry pellets only. Remove excess pellet dust if accessible and safe to do so. Do not dismantle mechanical parts unless instructed by the manual.

A pressure alarm usually means the heating system pressure is too low or too high.

What to try:
Check the pressure gauge. If pressure is low, the system may need topping up. If pressure keeps dropping, there may be a leak or expansion vessel issue.

Overheating can happen if heat is not being moved away from the boiler properly. This may be caused by pump failure, closed valves, airlocks, or incorrect system setup.

What to try:
Do not continue using the boiler if it overheats repeatedly. Check that valves are open and that the pump is operating. Contact a qualified technician.

Hot water issues may be caused by low boiler temperature, incorrect settings, a faulty sensor, poor circulation, or high demand.

What to try:
Check the hot water temperature setting. Make sure the boiler has enough time to heat the cylinder or buffer tank. If the problem continues, contact a heating technician.

Radiators may not heat if there is air in the system, low water pressure, a pump issue, closed valves, or incorrect boiler settings.

What to try:
Check radiator valves, bleed radiators if needed, and check system pressure. Make sure the heating schedule and thermostat are calling for heat.

A pellet boiler may fail to start because of no pellets, ignition failure, blocked burn pot, low system pressure, or an active safety alarm.

What to try:
Check the pellet level, clean the combustion area, check the display for alarms, and make sure the heating system pressure is within the recommended range.

Frequent cleaning may be required if pellets are poor quality, the stove is running at low power for long periods, or combustion is not set correctly.

What to try:
Use high-quality pellets. Avoid running the stove constantly on the lowest setting. Follow the cleaning schedule in the manual and book a service if ash build-up is excessive.

A smoke smell can be caused by poor draught, blocked flue, leaking seals, or a dirty stove.

What to try:
Turn the stove off safely. Check that the door is closed and seals are intact. Clean the stove and flue. If smoke smell continues, do not use the stove until it has been inspected.

The room fan may not start until the stove reaches a certain temperature. If the stove is hot and the fan still does not run, there may be a fan or sensor fault.

What to try:
Allow the stove time to heat up. Check the selected power level and fan setting. If the fan does not operate after the stove is hot, arrange a service call.

Some fan and motor noise is normal. Grinding, scraping, or loud humming may indicate an issue with the auger, fan, or motor.

What to try:
Clean the stove and check for pellet dust or debris in the hopper. If the noise continues, stop using the stove and contact a technician.

A pressure or vacuum alarm usually means the stove cannot detect correct airflow through the appliance.

What to try:
Check that the door and ash drawer are fully closed. Clean the stove and flue. Make sure the air inlet and exhaust path are not blocked.

The stove may switch off because of an alarm, lack of pellets, overheating, poor draught, or a sensor detecting unsafe operation.

What to try:
Check the display for an error code. Refill pellets if needed. Clean the stove and restart it. Do not ignore repeated alarms.

Black glass is often caused by poor-quality pellets, insufficient air, a dirty burn pot, or blocked airflow.

What to try:
Clean the burn pot daily or as recommended. Use certified good-quality pellets. Check that the door seal is in good condition and that the stove is burning with a bright, active flame.

A lazy flame usually indicates poor combustion. This can be caused by a dirty stove, blocked flue, poor-quality pellets, or insufficient air.

What to try:
Clean the burn pot, heat exchanger, ash drawer, and internal passages according to the manual. Make sure the flue is clear and the stove has been serviced.

This usually means the pellets are feeding faster than they are burning, or there is not enough combustion air.

What to try:
Clean the burn pot thoroughly. Check that air holes are not blocked. Use good-quality dry pellets. If the problem continues, the stove settings or flue draught may need adjustment.

Pellets may not feed if the hopper is empty, the auger is blocked, pellets are damp, or the feed motor has a fault.

What to try:
Check the hopper level. Make sure pellets are dry and not clumped together. Turn the stove off before inspecting the hopper or auger area.

A failed start can be caused by lack of pellets, dirty sensors, blocked airways, a dirty burn pot, or an ignition fault.

What to try:
Refill the hopper, clean the burn pot, empty the ash drawer, and restart the stove. If the same alarm returns, contact a technician.

The stove may not ignite if the burn pot is dirty, the igniter is faulty, pellets are not feeding correctly, or there is poor airflow.

What to try:
Clean the burn pot and remove ash from the ignition area. Make sure pellets are reaching the burn pot. Check that the door is fully closed and that the stove has no active alarms.

Black glass is usually caused by low burning temperature, wet fuel, poor air flow or poor chimney draught.

Overheating can happen if too much fuel is loaded, the air controls are left open too long, or the door seals are letting in excess air.

What to try:
Reduce the amount of fuel loaded. Close the air controls gradually once the fire is established. Check the rope seals and never operate the stove with the door open.

Use dry, suitable fuel and make sure there is enough air flow when lighting the stove. Always follow the instructions in your appliance manual.

Clicking or ticking sounds are usually caused by metal expanding and contracting as the stove heats up and cools down.

What to try:
This is normally harmless. If the noise is very loud, sudden, or combined with visible damage, have the stove checked.

Small cracks in fire bricks can happen with normal use and are not always a problem. Large cracks or missing pieces may reduce protection inside the stove.

What to try:
Continue using the stove if the bricks are still in position and protecting the stove body. Replace damaged bricks if they become loose, broken, or expose the metal body of the stove.

Tar or black liquid is usually caused by burning wet wood or running the stove too cool for long periods.

What to try:
Use only dry seasoned wood. Avoid slow, smoky burning. Have the chimney and flue inspected and cleaned if tar has built up.

A smell during the first few uses is normal as the stove paint cures. A smoke smell after that may indicate poor draught, leaking flue joints, or incorrect fuel.

What to try:
Ventilate the room during the first few burns. If the smell continues, stop using the stove and have the installation checked.

Smoke may escape if the door is opened too quickly, the firebox is overloaded, or the chimney draught is weak.

What to try:
Open the air controls fully for a short time before opening the door. Open the door slowly. Avoid refuelling when the stove is full of smoke or when the flames are very weak.

Fast fuel consumption can be caused by too much air entering the stove, worn rope seals, or leaving the air controls open too far.

What to try:
Once the fire is established, gradually reduce the air supply. Check that the door closes tightly and inspect the rope seals around the door and glass.

The stove may be too small for the room, the fuel may be poor quality, or the fire may not be burning hot enough.

What to try:
Use dry hardwood or good-quality fuel. Allow the stove to reach operating temperature before reducing the air controls. Check that the baffle plate is correctly positioned and that the chimney is drawing properly.

Black glass is usually caused by damp wood, poor airflow, or burning the stove at too low a temperature.

What to try:
Burn only dry wood with low moisture content. Keep the airwash control open enough to maintain a clear flame. Do not allow the stove to smoulder for long periods.

The fire may go out if the wood is too wet, the logs are too large, the air supply is restricted, or the chimney draught is weak.

What to try:
Use smaller dry logs at the start. Keep the air controls open until the fire is well established. Avoid closing the air vents too early.

A wood stove can be difficult to light if the wood is damp, the flue is cold, or the air controls are not fully open.

What to try:
Use dry kindling and properly seasoned wood. Open the air controls fully when lighting. Leave the stove door slightly ajar only during the first few minutes, if advised in your stove manual.

Smoke usually comes back into the room because the chimney is not drawing properly. This can happen if the chimney is cold, blocked, too short, affected by wind pressure, or if there is not enough ventilation in the room.

What to try:
Open the air controls fully before lighting the fire. Warm the flue first by lighting a small fire with dry kindling. Make sure the chimney has been swept and that any room vents are open.